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Setting Up a Marine Aquarium by Tom Henricks

Plenty of information is available today but much of it is excess words and too complex for the beginner. This little article should help you with the most basic needs of a marine aquarium. Marine fish keeping is different from its freshwater counterpart because of the basic differences in the composition of saltwater and the resulting differences in its inhabitants.

A stable marine aquarium also requires more equipment than freshwater systems, and the aquarium inhabitants are often more expensive to acquire.The major components of a marine aquarium are a tank, usually composed of glass or acrylic, a stand, components necessary for chemical, mechanical, and biological filtration, lighting, and a heater.

Marine Aquariums can range anywhere from tiny 2.5 and 30 US gallons to gigantic aquariums in surplus of 300 US.gallons Large tanks while easier to maintain on the biological and chemical level, are usually a financial impossibility for most individuals. For this reason, most saltwater tanks are between 40 and 100 US gallons (160 and 400 L).
Aquatic Plants are used to give the aquarium a natural appearance, oxygenate the water, and provide habitat for fish.

Some aquarium fish and invertebrates also eat live plants. Most of these plant species are found either partially or fully submersed in their natural habitat. Most grow and thrive fully under water. Several species of land plants such as umbrella pine and aluminum plant are also frequently sold as "Aquarium Plants". They will eventually die and must be removed so their decay does not contaminate the Aquarium Water.

The very first saltwater tanks were glass jars where the Romans kept anemones outside but were very short lived. The first personal saltwater fish keeping began on a wider scale in the 1950's, starting with the basic rectangular glass aquariums(usually 20 gallon), still popular today.

Bleached coral along with a substrate of coarse crushed coral was utilized at that time. Algae, were viewed negatively and generally removed. The clean, sterile tank was viewed as the healthiest. Saltwater was initially collected at local beaches. Natural saltwater contains many unwanted organisms, along with the occasional unwanted pollutant.

Most commonly kept marine fish of the day were the percula clownfish, sergeant major damselfish, small, brackish pufferfish and scats, jeweled blennies, sailfin mollies, and blue damsels.

Aquariums were equipped with large air compressors, and were aerated and filtered primarily with under gravel filters, Later, air driven, skimmers were invented.Maybe the largest revolution in fish keeping was a more reliable submersible electric heater.
Various efforts have been made to find the chemical properties of sea water and mix in necessary trace elements to create synthetic salt mixes.

Advancements in filtration now include trickle and hang-on filters. Fluorescent lighting along with metal halide lighting established the reef tank, making it a possible to keep corals and invertebrates without natural sunlight.

More efficient chemical testing brought more successful and widespread marine fish keeping. There are various forms of fish keeping today. The basic varieties of tanks are fish only , fish only with Live Rock and the reef tank, containing corals, sea anemones, or other delicate invertebrates.

Live rock is rock that has been in the ocean, composed of limestone and decomposing coral skeleton, usually around a Coral Reef such as those around Fiji, and is usually covered with beneficial algae, coralline and tiny invertebrates and bacteria that are desirable in the aquarium. The addition of live rock is one of the best ways to ensure a healthy aquarium, as the rock provides a buffer to maintain high pH (8.0-8.3), alkalinity, and acid-neutralizing.

The microfauna found on live rock provide fish with a natural, attractive shelter. Live rock usually arrives from online dealers as "uncured", and must be quarantined in a separate tank while undergoing the curing process, which nvolves the die-off of some of the rock's inhabitants and the production of undesirable ammonia and nitrite.

Live rock that is already cured is available at most pet stores that cater to saltwater enthusiasts.
Common hang-on filters usually only offer chemical and mechanical filtration through mesh and carbon, which is not enough for the Saltwater Aquarium.

Some hang-on filters have plates where bacteria can colonize and provide biological filtration as well. These plates should never be cleaned, as this would kill the bacteria colonies.

A small tank with only two or three fish can run very well with just basic undergravel filtration,and no protein skimming.Protein skimmers are very useful in the reef tank. These are tall columns of water into which large amounts of small bubbles are introduced, resulting in seafoam accumulating at the top of the column and spilling over into a removable collection cup. The resulting skimmate is composed of concentrated waste products With small numbers of fish a protein skimmer may not be absolutely necessary.

Another procedure relies on live rock, protein skimming and periodic partial water changes. No additional mechanical or biological filtration is necessary, as the live rock performs nitrification and denitrification. Sufficient live rock must be used, approximately 1/2 - 1 lb. per 1 US gallon. Strong circulation throughout the rock structure is achieved through power heads, water return from the sump, and/or closed-loop circulation systems.

Most fish are not particular about lighting and the light is more for the owner than for the fish. A regular cycle of light and dark, simulating day and night, is beneficial for fish. It establishes a routine and makes them feel more secure. An aquarium with living rock will need a more powerful light to encourage the growth of coralline algae. Some types include fluorescent, and metal halide.

Recent advances in lighting technology have also made available light Emitting Diodes. LED lighting is still very expensive, however they consume very little power, and they have a longer lifespan.

A temperature of 75 degrees Fahrenheit to 82 degrees Fahrenheit seems to be most common.This usually requires the use of a heater, most often submersible.

The most common things to test for in a saltwater aquarium are: Specific gravity should be kept between 1.020 and 1.024 for a fish only tank, and 1.023 and 1.026 for invertebrates and corals. Salinity should therefore be between 28-32 PPT. Salinity is directly related to specific gravity and both can be tested with a hydrometer. pH should be maintained between 8.1 and 8.3 (can be raised with a commercially available buffer or through calcium-rich substrata); Carbonate hardness should be between 8 and 12 degrees.

The nitrogen cycle refers to the conversion of toxic ammonia, to nitrite and finally nitrate. While fish waste (urine and feces), and decaying matter release ammonia, the majority of ammonia (approximately 60%) in both marine and freshwater aquariums is excreted directly into the water from a fishes' gills.

Ammonia and nitrite should be tested regularly; Nitrate should not exceed 20ppm in reef tanks, or 40ppm in fish-only tanks. It is normal to have a little nitrate buildup, and some fish handle it better than others. Most hermatypic corals, while able to assimilate nitrate, cannot be expected to perform well with chronically high nitrate concentrations.

Other suggested tests include calcium, alkalinity, iodine, strontium, molybdenum, and other trace minerals.

Water changes are a part of good saltwater maintenance. Water changes involve removing a fraction of the total volume of the aquarium, replacing that water with new pre-mixed saltwater. Pre-mixed saltwater has been dechlorinated and/or de-chloraminated. Water should be brought to the same temperature if more than a 5% change. Salinity should match that of the aquarium, or be modified very slowly if you need to modify the concentration.

Aging and aerating saltwater (such as in a bucket with a powerhead or airstone) is recommended as good practice. Replacement water should be of the same source as the aquarium.In cases where one is replacing a tap water-based salt mix with a reverse osmosis-based salt mix, the replacement water should be added slowly over the course of several hours.

If using municipal water, one should check with the local utility company to find out the composition of that tap water. Water containing high levels of nitrate or phosphate should be avoided, and reverse osmosis or distilled water used in its place.
These are the very basics of operating a marine aquarium.

Tom Henricks is now retired and enjoys working at gardening, fishing, hunting and writing. He maintains a few small websites. Articles such as this can be viewed at one of his websites All About Plants

Article Source: http://www.earticlesonline.com/Article/Setting-Up-a-Marine-Aquarium/112453

Aquarium Airstone...?

I have an aistone. Should i keep the airstone pressure minimum or maximum........

Or should i connect my air pump to my filter.......??

Air Stones are mainly for aeration and oxygen transfer from the atmosphere to the water. You can never have too much aeration but if it bothers your fish or if you don't like the way it looks on the highest setting its really not going to hurt anything if you turn it down. Its really up to personal preference.

Also I have never seen a filter that you can connect an air pump to. The only kind I could see that being possible for would be a sponge filter but I can't really see how it would help. You are probably better off just leaving it on your Air Stone.

Hope this helps.